Question 1

How much does a deck cost in Newcastle in 2026?

Accepted Answer

Indicative supplied-and-installed ranges for Newcastle and the Hunter: treated pine $200–$400 per m², hardwood (merbau, spotted gum, blackbutt) $300–$650 per m², and composite $300–$700 per m². As examples, a 15m² hardwood deck is roughly $4,500–$9,750, a 20m² hardwood deck roughly $6,000–$13,000, and a 30m² composite deck roughly $9,000–$21,000. The low end suits simple, ground-level decks on flat, accessible sites. The high end covers elevated decks, premium boards and hidden fixings.

Question 2

How much does composite decking cost compared with timber?

Accepted Answer

Composite typically costs about the same as, or more than, premium hardwood upfront: around $300–$700 per m² installed, versus $300–$650 for hardwood and $200–$400 for treated pine. The difference narrows over time because composite needs no oiling or staining. Re-oiling a timber deck professionally costs around $20–$70 per m² each time, so on a big deck that adds up over 10–20 years.

Question 3

How much does a pergola cost?

Accepted Answer

An open pergola structure typically costs $170–$380 per m² before roofing, and most residential pergolas land between $4,000 and $15,000. Adding a roof increases the price: polycarbonate and Colorbond are the most common options, and insulated panels sit at the premium end. Louvred or opening-roof pergolas generally start around $16,000 and can exceed $35,000.

Question 4

How much does a verandah or patio roof cost?

Accepted Answer

As a 2026 guide, flat or skillion Colorbond roofs cost about $190–$340 per m², gable Colorbond roofs about $235–$430 per m², and insulated roof panels about $335–$600 per m². A typical 25m² skillion Colorbond verandah is roughly $4,750–$8,500. Gable roofs cost more because of the extra framing, but they add height, light and airflow.

Question 5

How much does a pool deck cost?

Accepted Answer

Pool decks in hardwood or composite typically cost $350–$700 per m² installed. They usually cost more than a standard backyard deck because of extra drainage, ventilation, cutting around the pool and coping, and coordination with the pool fence. Balustrades, steps and lighting are extra.

Question 6

What makes a deck more expensive?

Accepted Answer

The biggest cost drivers are: height (once the deck is more than 1m off the ground you need a balustrade, stronger posts and more framing); sloping or rocky sites; tight access; stairs ($170–$460 per step); balustrades ($150–$700 per linear metre); premium boards and hidden fixing systems; removal and disposal of an old deck; adding a roof; and approval costs if a CDC or DA is needed ($500–$3,000+).

Question 7

Is a deck cheaper than paving or concrete?

Accepted Answer

On a flat block, plain concrete or basic paving usually costs less per square metre than a deck. On a sloping block, a deck is often the better value, because it avoids expensive excavation, retaining walls and fill, and it creates a level entertaining area straight off the house. Decks also feel cooler and softer underfoot than concrete.

Question 8

Are your quotes free?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Peter comes out, measures up, talks through materials, design and approvals, and gives you a written, itemised quote with no obligation.

Question 9

How much deposit will I need to pay?

Accepted Answer

In NSW, the Home Building Act caps the deposit for residential building work at 10% of the contract price. Work valued over $5,000 must be done by a licensed contractor under a written contract, and work over $20,000 also requires Home Building Compensation (HBC) cover, arranged by the builder before taking a deposit.

Question 10

Does a new deck add value to my home?

Accepted Answer

A well-built deck or covered alfresco area adds usable living space and is one of the features buyers notice most in Australian homes, especially in a coastal lifestyle market like Newcastle. How much value it adds depends on your home and suburb, so we never promise a specific return. A tired or unsafe deck, on the other hand, can turn buyers away.

Question 11

What is the best timber for decking in Australia?

Accepted Answer

The most popular decking timbers in Australia are spotted gum, merbau, blackbutt, ironbark and treated pine. Spotted gum is a dense Australian native with excellent durability, a varied colour from cream to dark brown, and good bushfire performance. Merbau is a stable, rich red-brown imported hardwood. Blackbutt is pale and contemporary. Ironbark is extremely hard. Treated pine is the budget choice. For most Newcastle homes we recommend spotted gum or merbau.

Question 12

Merbau vs spotted gum vs blackbutt: which should I choose?

Accepted Answer

Merbau: deep red-brown, very stable with little movement, but it bleeds tannin (a brown stain) for the first year or two, so keep it away from light pavers and render while it settles. Spotted gum: Australian-grown, very durable, with a lively mix of colours that suits coastal and modern homes, and it performs well in bushfire-prone areas. Blackbutt: a light, even honey tone for a contemporary Scandi or coastal look, and also durable. All three need regular oiling to hold their colour.

Question 13

Is treated pine good for decking?

Accepted Answer

Yes, for budget, low-level decks. Treated pine is affordable and easy to work, and when it's correctly treated (H3 for above-ground boards and joists, H4 or higher for posts in the ground) it resists rot and termites. The trade-offs: it's softer, so it dents more easily, it's more prone to cupping and splitting, and it needs regular oiling or staining. Many people use treated pine for the hidden subframe and a hardwood or composite on top.

Question 14

What board width should I choose?

Accepted Answer

Standard boards are about 86–90mm wide; wide boards are about 135–140mm. Narrow boards are a little cheaper, more stable and less prone to cupping. Wide boards give a modern, premium look with fewer gaps, but they move more with moisture, so they need careful fixing and spacing. Wide boards suit covered decks and contemporary homes. Narrow boards suit exposed decks.

Question 15

Why is my new merbau deck staining my pavers?

Accepted Answer

Merbau contains natural tannins that leach out when it gets wet, leaving brown stains on concrete, pavers and render, mostly in the first year or two. To reduce it: wash the deck down before oiling, protect nearby surfaces during the first rains, and use a tannin-removing deck cleaner. Most tannin stains can be removed from hard surfaces with an oxalic-acid-based cleaner.

Question 16

What decking timber is best for bushfire-prone areas?

Accepted Answer

It depends on your property's Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) under AS 3959. Dense hardwoods like spotted gum, blackbutt and ironbark are commonly specified for bushfire-prone sites because they perform well in fire testing, and some composite boards are also tested for certain BAL ratings. Parts of Lake Macquarie, Port Stephens and the Hunter are bushfire-prone, so we check your BAL before recommending materials.

Question 17

What is composite decking?

Accepted Answer

Composite decking is made from a blend of wood fibres and plastic (often recycled), formed into boards that look like timber. Most premium boards today are "capped": wrapped in a tough polymer shell that resists fading, staining and mould far better than older uncapped boards. Composite doesn't need oiling, sanding or staining.

Question 18

What are the pros and cons of composite decking?

Accepted Answer

Pros: no oiling or staining, no splinters, consistent colour, doesn't rot or attract termites, easy to clean, and premium boards often carry 25-year or longer residential warranties. Cons: higher upfront cost than treated pine and most hardwoods; darker boards can get hot underfoot in full summer sun; it can't be sanded back if scratched; and quality varies a lot between brands. It also still sits on a subframe that needs to be built properly.

Question 19

Which composite decking brands are available in Australia?

Accepted Answer

Popular brands in Australia include Trex, ModWood (made in Australia), Millboard, NewTechWood, Eva-last, Ekodeck, TimberTech and Hardie Deck. They differ in look, heat performance, warranty, fixing system and price. We'll recommend boards based on your budget, sun exposure, how close you are to the coast, and the look you're after.

Question 20

Does composite decking get hot?

Accepted Answer

It can. Composite generally heats up more than timber in direct summer sun, and dark colours get the hottest. If your deck faces north or west with no shade, choose a lighter colour, consider a heat-reflective board, or add a pergola or roof. On covered decks, heat isn't an issue.

Question 21

Does composite decking fade or go mouldy?

Accepted Answer

Modern capped composite boards are highly fade- and stain-resistant, though most boards lighten slightly in the first few months of sun before stabilising. Composite doesn't rot, but mould and mildew can grow on dirt and pollen sitting on the surface, especially in shady, damp spots. A wash with soapy water and a soft brush a couple of times a year keeps it clean.

Question 22

Can composite decking go over an old timber deck or a concrete slab?

Accepted Answer

Not directly over old decking boards. The old boards come off, and if the existing subframe is sound and spaced correctly for composite (usually closer joist spacing than timber), it may be reused, with joist protection tape added. Over concrete, composite can be installed on a low-profile subframe or adjustable pedestals, as long as there's drainage and airflow underneath.

Question 23

Should I choose timber or composite decking?

Accepted Answer

Choose hardwood if you want a genuine natural timber look and feel, the option to sand and refinish, and a lower upfront price, and you don't mind oiling every 6–12 months. Choose composite if you want minimal maintenance, a consistent colour, no splinters for kids and pets, and you're happy to pay more upfront. Around pools and on coastal homes, composite is increasingly popular. On covered decks and period homes, hardwood still shines.

Question 24

How long does a deck last?

Accepted Answer

With good construction and regular maintenance, a hardwood deck commonly lasts 20–30+ years, and quality composite decks are typically warranted for 25 years or more. Treated pine decks generally have a shorter life, especially if they aren't maintained. What kills most decks early is poor construction: posts sitting in soil, no ventilation, the wrong fixings and joists spaced too far apart, not the boards themselves.

Question 25

What is the best decking around a pool?

Accepted Answer

Capped composite boards and dense hardwoods like spotted gum and merbau are the go-to choices. Composite is the lowest maintenance, because it resists water, chlorine and salt. Hardwood looks beautiful but needs regular sealing, especially where pool water splashes. Treated pine isn't ideal right next to the water.

Question 26

Is decking slippery around a pool?

Accepted Answer

Any surface can be slippery when wet. Timber becomes slippery mainly when algae, mould or dirt build up. Choose boards with a grooved or textured surface, keep the deck clean, and use an anti-slip finish on timber. Many composite boards are tested for slip resistance. Good drainage so water doesn't sit on the surface also helps.

Question 27

Does a pool deck affect my pool fence compliance?

Accepted Answer

It can. In NSW, pool barriers must comply with the Swimming Pools Act and the relevant Australian Standard, and a deck, step, planter or balustrade must not create a climbable foothold within the non-climbable zone around the pool fence. We plan deck levels, steps and balustrades around the barrier rules. If your pool needs a compliance certificate, have it checked after the deck is built.

Question 28

What's the difference between a pergola, a verandah and a patio?

Accepted Answer

A pergola is an outdoor frame of posts and beams. It can be open (rafters or battens only) or roofed, and attached or freestanding. A verandah (or veranda) is a roofed structure attached to the house, often running along the front or back. "Patio" in Australia usually means a covered outdoor area, typically a Colorbond or insulated roof over a deck, pavers or slab. A covered deck is simply a deck with a roof over it.

Question 29

What roof options are there for a pergola or verandah?

Accepted Answer

The main options are: Colorbond steel sheeting (affordable, durable, comes in many colours); insulated sandwich panels (cooler, quieter in rain, with a smooth ceiling underneath, ideal for fans and lights); polycarbonate (lets light through); louvred or opening roofs (adjustable sun and shade); and shade cloth or an open-rafter pergola for filtered shade.

Question 30

Should my pergola be timber or steel?

Accepted Answer

Timber pergolas look warm and natural, suit decks and period homes, and are easy to customise, but they need painting or oiling. Steel or aluminium frames are slimmer, termite-proof, need little maintenance and can span further. Many projects combine a steel frame with timber details. We'll recommend based on span, roof type and the style of your house.

Question 31

Flat, skillion or gable roof: which is best?

Accepted Answer

Flat and skillion (single-pitch) roofs are the most affordable and suit most single-storey homes. Gable (pitched, triangular) roofs cost more because of the extra framing, but they add height, light and airflow, which helps keep the area cooler in summer. The right choice depends on your existing roofline and how much height you have.

Question 32

Can you add a roof to my existing deck?

Accepted Answer

Often, yes, provided the deck's footings and frame are strong enough to carry roof posts, or new posts can be installed independently. We inspect the existing deck first. If the frame is tired, it's usually better value to re-deck and roof in one project.

Question 33

Do I need council approval for a deck in NSW?

Accepted Answer

Not if it meets all the exempt development standards in the NSW Codes SEPP. In summary: the deck must be behind the building line, no more than 25m² in area, have a floor no more than 1m above existing ground level, be at least 900mm from each lot boundary (5m in some rural zones), and keep the total of all such structures on the lot within 15% of the home's ground floor area (or 25m² on lots of 300m² or less). Heritage items, foreshore areas and bushfire-prone land have extra conditions. If the deck doesn't comply, it usually needs a Complying Development Certificate (CDC) or a development application (DA).

Question 34

Do I need approval for a pergola or verandah?

Accepted Answer

Pergolas, verandahs and patios can also be exempt development in NSW if they meet the Codes SEPP standards, including the 25m² size limit, setbacks, being behind the building line, a maximum height of 3m above ground level, and roofed structures attached to the house not extending above the gutter line. Larger or higher structures typically need a CDC or DA. We'll confirm the pathway for your property during the quote.

Question 35

When does a deck need a balustrade?

Accepted Answer

Under the National Construction Code, a balustrade or barrier is required where it's possible to fall more than 1m. It must be at least 1m high above the deck floor (865mm along stairs), and openings must not let a 125mm sphere pass through. Where the deck is more than 4m above the ground, there can't be climbable horizontal elements between 150mm and 760mm above the floor, so horizontal wire or rail designs aren't allowed at that height.

Question 36

Does my deck builder need to be licensed?

Accepted Answer

In NSW, any residential building or trade work valued at more than $5,000 (labour and materials, incl. GST) must be done by a licensed contractor, and licence numbers must be shown on advertising. All our work is carried out by Lake Macquarie Carpentry & Building Services, NSW Contractor Licence 55690C. You can check any licence for free on the NSW Government's licence check service.

Question 37

What if my property is in a bushfire-prone area?

Accepted Answer

Decks and outdoor structures on bushfire-prone land must meet the construction requirements for your Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) under AS 3959. This affects which timbers, composite boards, fixings and screening can be used, and it can affect whether a structure qualifies as exempt development. You can check bushfire-prone mapping through the NSW Planning Portal. We'll factor your BAL into the design.

Question 38

How close to my boundary can I build a deck?

Accepted Answer

For a deck to be exempt development in NSW, it generally needs to be at least 900mm from each side and rear boundary (5m in some rural zones) and behind the building line facing the street. Decks closer to the boundary, or forward of the building line, need approval and may need privacy screening. Your council or a certifier can confirm the rules for your lot.

Question 39

How long does it take to build a deck?

Accepted Answer

Most standard decks take around 3–10 working days on site. Pergolas are often 2–5 days, and verandahs or covered decks around 1–2 weeks, depending on size and roof type. Allow extra time for material lead times, weather, and any CDC or DA approval before work starts.

Question 40

What's your process from quote to finished deck?

Accepted Answer

01 Measure & Quote: Peter visits, measures up, checks levels, access and approvals, and gives you a written quote. 02 Design & Consult: we confirm the layout, boards, colours, balustrades, stairs and any roof, and lodge approvals if needed. 03 Construct: footings, subframe, decking, balustrades and finishing, then a final walkthrough and clean-up.

Question 41

What footings and subframe do you use?

Accepted Answer

It depends on the site. Typical options are concrete footings with galvanised stirrups, adjustable steel piers, or a lightweight steel subframe. Timber subframes use H4-treated posts where they're in contact with the ground and H3 joists above ground, and we add joist protection tape to extend frame life. Proper ventilation and drainage under the deck matter as much as the boards on top.

Question 42

Can you build a deck on a sloping block?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Decks are one of the best solutions for sloping Newcastle and Lake Macquarie blocks. They create flat, usable space without costly excavation or retaining walls. Higher decks need a balustrade once the fall exceeds 1m, and may need engineering and approval.

Question 43

Hidden fixings or face screws: what's the difference?

Accepted Answer

Face screws go through the top of each board. They're strong and economical, and with neat lines and stainless steel screws they look great. Hidden (concealed) fixing clips sit between the boards, so the surface is completely clean and there are no screw heads to catch bare feet. Hidden fixings cost more and suit both composite and premium hardwood decks.

Question 44

Can you build a deck over grass, pavers or concrete?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Over grass or soil, we build on proper footings with clearance for ventilation. Over sound pavers or a slab, a low-profile subframe or adjustable pedestals can create a level deck with minimal height. In every case, water needs somewhere to drain, and there must be airflow under the boards.

Question 45

Do you remove and dispose of my old deck?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We can demolish and remove an old deck as part of the job, and we'll include it in your quote. If the existing subframe is sound, re-decking on top of it can save money.

Question 46

When is the best time of year to build a deck?

Accepted Answer

Decks can be built year-round in Newcastle. Spring and early summer are the busiest times, because everyone wants their deck ready for Christmas and summer entertaining. Book your measure and quote a few months ahead if you have a deadline.

Question 47

How often should I oil my timber deck?

Accepted Answer

Exposed hardwood decks in Newcastle typically need a clean and re-oil every 6–12 months to hold their colour; covered decks can go 12–24 months. Use a quality penetrating decking oil, apply thin coats on a dry day out of direct midday sun, and let it dry completely before use.

Question 48

How do I clean a composite deck?

Accepted Answer

Sweep regularly, and wash it a couple of times a year with warm soapy water and a soft-bristle brush. Clean up grease spills from barbecues quickly. Avoid harsh solvents, and only use a pressure washer within the manufacturer's guidelines (low pressure, fan tip, keep moving). Clear debris from board gaps so water drains freely.

Question 49

How do I stop my deck from being slippery?

Accepted Answer

Slippery decks are usually caused by mould, algae or dirt in shady, damp spots. Clean the deck with a dedicated deck cleaner or mould remover and a stiff brush, let it dry for at least 2 days, then apply a quality deck oil or stain. For extra grip, use an anti-slip additive or coating, or anti-slip strips on steps. Trim back plants to let in sun and air.

Question 50

How do I remove black mould or stains from my deck?

Accepted Answer

On timber, use a deck cleaner or mould remover, scrub with a stiff (not wire) brush, and rinse well. Grey, weathered timber can be revived with a timber brightener before re-oiling. On composite, warm soapy water and a soft brush handles most marks; use a composite-specific cleaner for stubborn mould. Avoid bleach on timber, because it can damage the fibres.

Question 51

Can my old deck be repaired instead of replaced?

Accepted Answer

Often, yes. If the posts, bearers and joists are sound, we can replace damaged boards, re-fix loose areas, upgrade balustrades or re-deck the whole surface. Warning signs that need urgent attention: soft or spongy boards, rot where timber meets the ground, rusted or popped fixings, bounce or movement, a wobbly balustrade, and termite damage. If the frame itself is failing, replacement is the safer and better-value option.

Question 52

What fixings should be used near the coast?

Accepted Answer

Close to the ocean or the lake, salt air corrodes standard fixings quickly. Use marine-grade (316) stainless steel screws and fittings on coastal properties, and hot-dip galvanised or stainless brackets for structural connections. It costs a little more upfront but prevents rust stains and fixing failures.

Question 53

Are termites a problem for decks in Newcastle?

Accepted Answer

Termites are active across Newcastle, Lake Macquarie and the Hunter. Protect your deck by keeping timber off the soil (use galvanised stirrups or steel posts), using correctly treated or naturally durable timber, keeping the area under the deck dry and ventilated, and including the deck in your regular termite inspections. Steel subframes and composite boards aren't eaten by termites.

Question 54

Who carries out the work?

Accepted Answer

Newcastle Decking Co is a lead generation website. All enquiries go to, and all quoting and building work is carried out by, Lake Macquarie Carpentry & Building Services: Peter Henderson, a licensed carpenter trading since 2001 and based in Cameron Park. NSW Contractor Licence 55690C · ABN 74 336 935 193.

Question 55

Is the work covered by a warranty?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Residential building work in NSW is covered by the statutory warranties in the Home Building Act: 6 years for major defects and 2 years for other defects. Jobs over $20,000 also include Home Building Compensation cover. Manufacturer warranties apply to products like composite boards and roofing.

Question 56

What areas do you service?

Accepted Answer

Newcastle, Lake Macquarie, Maitland, Port Stephens, Cessnock and the wider Hunter region. Common suburbs include Merewether, The Junction, Hamilton, Adamstown, Kotara, Lambton, Wallsend, Charlestown, Warners Bay, Belmont, Swansea, Toronto, Cardiff, Glendale, Cameron Park, Edgeworth, Morisset, Maitland, Thornton, Raymond Terrace, Medowie, Nelson Bay and Cessnock.

Question 57

Do you also do carports, balustrades and screening?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We build carports, deck stairs and balustrades (timber, wire, aluminium and glass), and privacy screens, as standalone jobs or as part of a bigger outdoor renovation.

Question 58

How do I get a quote?

Accepted Answer

Call Peter on 02 4003 6068, or fill in the form with your name, email, phone, suburb and a few details about your project. Photos and rough measurements help. Peter will call you back to book a free on-site measure and quote.

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